In Car Heater

[Kev1960]

I have a 2003 TDi Galaxy.At the weekend the in car heater started blowing cold when ticking over.Driving at about 40mph the heater gets warm again till I stop at traffic lights.The temp gauge is steady at 90 degrees and it doesn't go above this at any time.I took the expansion cap off and there is no pressure at all and the water level is OK.Any suggestions please?

[chrispb123456]

Hi and welcome to the forum

 

You need to check engine water pump impeller as they have a habit of shearing off, you can check this by removing thermostat and looking through to the rear of the pump.

To remove pump you need to remove timing cover and belts.

 

Also ensure electric run on pump is working (behind fuel filter)

[Kev1960]

Thanks for your quick reply.If the water pump impeller has sheared off is it safe to use the car or is it likley to overheat ?

[Kev1960]

I had a look for the run on pump .If it's the one I found it was very corroded all around it.Is there any way to test if it's working or not ?

I took a picture of it ,but I'm not sure how to get it on here.

[acecard]

and if your timing belt is due for renewal, get a new water pump at the same time whether or not that is the fault

[BrianH]

You can attach them on your reply - scroll down. for some reason that doesn't work for me though so I just use photobucket and post the link here (its free, signup for an account and upload your photo then use the last option to get the links that have IMG tags and just paste them into the reply here).

[gregers]

I had a look for the run on pump .If it's the one I found it was very corroded all around it.Is there any way to test if it's working or not ?

I took a picture of it ,but I'm not sure how to get it on here.

once you have turned the engine off it (if working)will continue to run for about 5mins,if your sitting in the car being quite you can hear it humming,or open bonnet and give it a feel,oooerrr.

if it isnt working look in the faqs for a thread on repairing it.

[Kev1960]

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a358/aarvdarx8/2347d48f-6c28-4320-94ab-ddbcfe10552b.jpg

[gregers]

er yeah think so,

 

www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/7510-diesel-run-on-water-pump/#entry54739

[BigDog]

IMO if the car shows no sign of overheating then I would doubt there's a need to immediately replace the timing-belt driven water-pump. Check the FAQ section, topics 54 and 75 are relevant for the electric run-on pump. Topic 1 is for the aux heater. From experience, fixing the run-on pump increases flow through the front heater matrix at idle so makes the heater more effective. In addition in my case the aux heater started working, the rear heater matrix got flow so the rear of the car could be heated as it's meant to be. With everything working the system heated up much quicker too, rather than being dependent on waste heat from the engine alone.

From the photo it looks like there are some heavy white deposits, possibly from a slow coolant leak. The deposits seem to be on top of the black plastic of the run-on pump impeller housing. Does the car need the coolant topping up regularly? I would expect the deposits to be pink like the coolant though.... unless you are using a different colour antifreeze?

All the best,

Matt

[chrispb123456]

Thanks for your quick reply.If the water pump impeller has sheared off is it safe to use the car or is it likley to overheat ?

Wouldn't use it on a motorway till it's checked, unlikely to overheat around town especially this time of year.

[Kev1960]

IMO if the car shows no sign of overheating then I would doubt there's a need to immediately replace the timing-belt driven water-pump. Check the FAQ section, topics 54 and 75 are relevant for the electric run-on pump. Topic 1 is for the aux heater. From experience, fixing the run-on pump increases flow through the front heater matrix at idle so makes the heater more effective. In addition in my case the aux heater started working, the rear heater matrix got flow so the rear of the car could be heated as it's meant to be. With everything working the system heated up much quicker too, rather than being dependent on waste heat from the engine alone. From the photo it looks like there are some heavy white deposits, possibly from a slow coolant leak. The deposits seem to be on top of the black plastic of the run-on pump impeller housing. Does the car need the coolant topping up regularly? I would expect the deposits to be pink like the coolant though.... unless you are using a different colour antifreeze? All the best, Matt

 

 From the photo it looks like there are some heavy white deposits, possibly from a slow coolant leak. The deposits seem to be on top of the black plastic of the run-on pump impeller housing. Does the car need the coolant topping up regularly? I would expect the deposits to be pink like the coolant though.... unless you are using a different colour antifreeze? All the best, Matt

 

Thanks Matt. I have had the car for 3.5 years.During that time I have done 60,000 miles .Because of the milage I do I check the oil and water every week.I have not needed to add any water at all during this time.The milage on the car is 163000.

[Kev1960]

I had the water pump changed this morning (£120) and there is no change.I suspect it may be the additional (run on) pump.I rang Ford and they called it a "change over valve" and gave me a part number YM21-12B573GA .I rang a car parts supplier and they had never heard of it being called a change over valve.I'm now puzzled.Has anyone got a part number that the supplier may recognise .

My car is a 2003 TDI 90 Galaxy.

Thanks

[xavier]

Hang on a mo, part no was in the aux heater replacement faq I think...

> not sure of VW part number. Ford part number is 1307485

> old part number 1124940

 

Try that. If you start the car, open the bonnet then switch off the ignition, you should clearly hear a hum from the back of the engine bay. If you don't, it's not running. Replaced the brushes in mine and can second that it makes a big difference to heating. Mine took an absolute age to start blowing warm air through the heater before the repair, now I can feel warmish air after 8-10 mins or so (no working eberspacher on mine). Downside is I'll have warm air blowing through the vents in the summer! Maybe I should put some lagging on those pipes next time I'm in there.